My Old Fashioned Tour of America, Stop #110: Illyria, Harrisonburg, Virginia

Enjoyed: Tuesday, April 21, 2026.

Listed on the menu: Yes, as “Baklava Old Fashioned”.

Ingredients: Woodford, baklava simple syrup, orange, walnut bitters, luxardo cherry, and smoke (optional, but Husband wanted it).

The occasion: For many years, I kept saying that we need to see Virginia’s Natural Chimneys, which are only about an hour and 15 minute drive from us. Finally, we were on our way. To extend the outing, I also planned activities in Harrisonburg. We attended a student jazz band concert that evening at James Madison University, then in the morning we had a Master Gardener lead us through the university’s arboretum. Supper at Illyria was a highlight, too, since we are fans of Mediterranean-style cuisine. Husband said the lamb was the best he has ever had.

My rating: **** out of 5. Husband and I shared this drink, and I would have preferred it without the smoke, since I believe the nutty “baklava” simple syrup should have taken center stage. The walnut and orange bitters weren’t discernable, but I am sure they contributed to the richness of the cocktail. I also ordered the signature drink, the “Illyria”, which is similar to a lemon-drop martini but with an olive oil floater–wow, that was tasty!

Final thoughts: I am so happy we chose to hike around the Natural Chimneys park! The mountain views from the trail were lovely, the river was calming, and I enjoyed identifying all the spring flowers, like the bluebells. And the chimneys! So dramatic, and so interesting, even if you know little about geology. These seven solid mostly-limestone formations rise as high as 120 feet–so hard to believe that hundreds of millions of years ago, they were entirely under water.

My Old Fashioned Tour of America, Stop #109: Devils River Distillery, San Antonio, Texas

Enjoyed: Sunday, March 29, 2026.

Listed on the menu: Yes, as “Fresh Squeezed”. There were several Old Fashioneds on the menu, but this one sounded the most “San Antonio” appropriate.

Ingredients: Devils River Agave bourbon whiskey, Ango bitters, Lemon bitters, lemon and orange. And a gorgeous stamped ice cube!

The occasion: We had passed this distillery a few times before, as we walked down Houston Street in search of Mexican breakfast pastries (so good!). After spending the morning exploring the parts of the Briscoe Museum of Western Art that we missed the previous afternoon, we decided to pop in to the distillery for a late lunch and some drinks. Husband chose the premium flight, while I had a rough time deciding which cocktail to pick.

My rating: **** out of 5. I had never had Agave bourbon, not to mention bourbon made with iron-free, limestone filtered spring water from the Devils River in southwestern Texas. Blue Agave nectar–the key ingredient in tequila and mezcal– from Jalisco, Mexico, is added to the bourbon to sweeten it, the website told me. The cocktail was sweeter than a typical Old Fashioned, and the agave flavor was present but not overpowering. The drink was definitely an Old Fashioned and not a Margarita. This paired well with the cheesy nachos I ordered.

Final thoughts: 1. We couldn’t get too tipsy, since we still had to attend a much-awaited concert: the Alamo City Symphony played with the Viva Mariachi band and the Ballet Folklorico danced. What a great celebration of the local culture! We ended the day with a memorable supper at Isidore, one of the three Michelin-starred restaurants in San Antonio. 2. The bar manager at the distillery asked us if we were familiar with Virginia Foothills Distillery in Barboursville, Virginia. Why yes, I even follow this business on Facebook, since it is one of the closest distilleries to our home. It turns out that the owner/distiller was just at Devils River to pick up additional tips and training. It’s a small world!

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My Old Fashioned Tour of America, Stop #108:  Sternewirth Bar, Hotel Emma, San Antonio, Texas

Enjoyed: Saturday, March 28, 2026.

Listed on the menu: Yes, as “Lone Star Old Fashioned” (“big hats, big hair, strong cocktails” said the menu notes)

Ingredients: Smoked Michter’s rye, spiced syrup, orange bitters, angostura bitters

The occasion: We spent the first part of the day exploring downtown San Antonio, from the Alamo Plaza to the Cathedral of San Fernando to the Historic Market Square to the Briscoe Museum of Western Art. We had supper reservations at the Culinary Institute of America, but we arrived in the neighborhood early enough to grab a pre-supper cocktail. The Hotel Emma was once The Pearl Brewery, and many of the brewery features remained as part of the decor, which made it even more fun.

My rating: ***** out of 5. The bar area is definitely a focal point of this “bougie” hotel, so the high-brow vibes made me cautiously optimistic, but the cocktail menu was obviously well-curated and the bartenders well-trained, and the drink was superb–orange essence followed by a hint of smokiness, then a hint of pumpkin-pie-like spices. Extra credit for the toothpick with a pearl on the end, no doubt a nod to the hotel’s location in the Pearl District.

Final thoughts: 1. Supper at the Culinary Institute of America was wonderful. The students did all the work, from making cocktails to waiting tables to cooking. The service was top-notch and our food was innovative and delicious. I wish them all well in their careers. 2. As we left the bar, we saw a crowd gathering along the river, where a young man waited with flowers. Soon, a young woman approached him. He dropped to a knee and presented a ring in a box. From our vantage point, it looked like she agreed to marry him. The crowd cheered. This is now the fourth time I have witnessed a public marriage proposal. I don’t know if I necessarily like it.

My Old Fashioned Tour of America, Stop #107: Ambler Texas Kitchen, San Antonio, Texas

Enjoyed: Friday, March 27, 2026.

Listed on the menu: Yes, as “Outlaw Old Fashioned”

Ingredients: Basil Hayden bourbon, banana, banana liqueur, brown sugar syrup, black walnut bitters, chocolate bitters.

The occasion: We spent the morning at The Alamo and the afternoon exploring the four other missions of San Antonio. Another UNESCO World Heritage Site to add to my Bucket List! I wanted to dine along the River Walk, so I chose Ambler Texas Kitchen, which was not too far from our hotel, the historic Menger. We were seated at a table right in front of Marriage Island, it turned out, the site of 300 weddings per year, according to each and every tour guide narration we heard as the boats floated by. After our lovely meal, we asked our server to take our photo on Marriage Island. I wonder if any passing passengers took our photo, too…

My rating: *** out of 5. I was initially intrigued by this creative combination of flavors. I am not a big fan of the taste of banana, however, and the banana in this drink was not subtle enough for me. Husband happily drank this for me, so all’s well. I do like the idea of a brown sugar simple syrup, so I will be experimenting with that at home.

Final thoughts: We decided, on the spur of the moment, to take one of the last evening boat rides along the River Walk. The landmarks and businesses along the river were so beautifully lit. We passed by the stage where they filmed the “perfect date” scene in the movie Miss Congeniality, but I will argue that today was one of the most perfect dates that I have had, and I did need a light jacket.

My Old Fashioned Tour of America, Stop #106: Hill Top Cafe, Fredericksburg, Texas

Enjoyed: Wednesday, March 25, 2026.

Listed on the menu: Yes, as “Old Fashioned”.

Ingredients: Buffalo Trace bourbon, simple syrup, bitters, Luxardo cherry.

The occasion: I had finally made it to the state of Texas, and more specifically, to the Hill Country of Texas! I had always wanted to see the Blue Bonnets (the state flower!) in bloom, and our timing was perfect–we spent the morning driving the Willow City Loop, just north of Fredericksburg, and the violet-blue blossoms were plentiful, as were other spring flowers in yellow, purple, and red. We saw gently-rolling hills, grazing cattle, and even a roadrunner (beep beep). In the early afternoon, we rode horses (Copper and Teddy) through meadows and up a ridge, so by early evening, we were ready for drinks and a solid meal. Hill Top Cafe is in a former gas station, and the delicious food reflected the Cajun heritage of the owner. But the best treat was the one-man show put on by the co-owner, Johnny Nicholas, a Grammy winner. He shared stories, jokes, and incredible blues/Americana music. What a fun night!

My rating: **** out of 5. Our waiter was also the bartender and sous chef, it appeared, and he assured me that he made a solid Old Fashioned. He did. The drink was as traditional as can be, and quite generous, too.

Final thoughts: I guess everything is really bigger in Texas–generous drinks, huge slabs of steak and meatloaf and blackberry cobbler, over-the-top decor, and the warmth extended to us by fellow diners/music fans.